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The REAL
Finishing Touch
It’s
Not Paint or Polish … It’s Pants!
text &
photos by Bill Ford
Mike Merling has a passion for history, period
clothing, and getting things right. For the past two years, he has been
marketing reproduction classic motorcycle clothing from the 1900s through
the 1950s era.
“A few years ago, I was at the Antique Motorcycle
Club of America (AMCA) Rhinebeck Grand National Meet and it looked odd to
see all these people riding beautiful antique motorcycles, but without the
correct period clothing to make the impression complete,” Mike told me.
“So I decided to start making my own line of correct period motorcycle
clothing and accessories.”
On his website, www.goldenagemotorcycleclothing.com,
Mike states that, “Our goal with Golden Age Motorcycle Clothing is to
create a full service clothing business. The quest is to make a high
quality reproduction clothing line from 1900 to 1950. We are here to cover
the motorcycle rider from head to toe. Over the years, I have bought many
a pair of riding breeches, boots and hats, only to find that they were dry
rotted or did not fit. Our hope is that we can save you from that
experience and provide you with the best in reproduction clothing for the
least amount of money.”
Mike did a lot of research—looking through and
collecting old photographs and catalogs—to find what riders were wearing
in the early 1900s through the 1950s. What he found was that most of it
was adopted from U.S. Cavalry uniforms and accessories - boots, shirts,
pants (jodhpurs), gauntlets, were all the same. What could be better than
riding apparel developed over the previous 100 years? The cavalry uniforms
provided excellent protection and comfort - clothing requirements for
riding a horse are closely akin to those for riding a motorcycle.
Mike has also collected an excellent selection of
original antique riding gear. He found out how the different pieces were
made, the materials they were made of, and what was good and bad. “If I
was going to get into this, it was important to me to get the details just
right,” Mike explained.
Two years ago, Mike decided to dive in. He found
people who could make the patterns and sew to his standards. “My first
order was for seven pairs of pants,” he told me.
“The jodhpur-style pants have more room in the
crotch, thighs, and waist, and are made to be worn with knee-high boots so
they taper to fit snugly around the calf and ankle,” Mike explained.
“They have a reinforced seat area to wear longer, and are made of 100%
cotton or horsehide. Horsehide stretches for more comfort than cowhide, it
doesn’t break down like cowhide, it's also tougher and lasts longer. The
cotton jodhpurs I sell are U.S.-made and have serged edges (stitching
around the edges of the material) to prevent unraveling and to make the
pants more comfortable.
“At first, riders just wore standard shirts with
buttons. Later, the western-type ‘yoke’ shirts became popular,” Mike
said. “They can have alternating colors (yoke, sleeves, cuffs, and
trim), snap buttons, and so-called ‘smiley’ pockets because of their
upturned, curved shape. They usually had the name of the rider’s
motorcycle club on the back and the rider’s name on the front. These
were stitched free-form using the almost defunct chain stitch (which looks
like chain mail) or chenille stitching like high school letter jackets
have.
“Boots were either the Cavalry-type officer’s
dress boot, patrol man's boot, or the full lace-up types—all of them
came up to just below the knee. The popular so-called ‘engineers’ boot
was introduced by Sears Roebuck in the 1940s. They called it their
‘dress boot.’ In the background of the photo was an engineer wearing
the boot, and ever since they have been known as an engineer boot.
“Hats were originally patterned after the
snap-brim, Irish-style baseball caps of the teens and twenties,” Mike
said. In the 1930s, riders adopted military-style brimmed hats that were
made of fabric, canvas, and even pigskin leather. Caps were sold by
Harley, Indian, Henderson, and others, with their logo on the front as a
way for riders to show their brand loyalty. It was also a place where
riders could attach pins from AMA or other events they attended. The club
captain had a gold metal band in the front and the lieutenant had a silver
metal band. I have a pigskin leather hat, boots, and gauntlets from the
same guy. The hat has 20 years of AMA pins on it and I would love to track
down information about him to learn more—to create a connection with the
artifacts.
“Kidney belts were a real necessity with the rough
roads riders had to contend with back then, and before the advent of full
suspensions,” Mike explained. “They became a type of folk-art
decorated with jewels, tacks, hand painting or embossing—real
Americana—and are now coveted by collectors. Harley and Indian offered
matching belts and saddlebags. Gloves with long coverings to protect the
forearm—like Cavalry gauntlets—were another important piece of
protection for early riders. We make them especially to fit you and we can
decorate them or you can do it yourself.
“In the 1920s, clubs began to adopt ‘dress
uniforms’—the same for men and women—with matching brimmed hats,
ties, western-style shirts and pants, with the club logo chain stitched on
the back and the person's name on the front.
“Many of my suppliers have been in business for
over 100 years, including our boot and goggle manufacturers, and even use
the same patterns,” Mike said. “Our patrol boot is custom-made to
order in your choice of leathers, style, height, soles, and colors. The
shirts can be made in a variety of colors and trim combinations, as well
as our pants.
“It takes a long time to get something into
production—years in some cases,” Mike told me. “My hats have been in
development for 1-1/2 years to get them right, and they are just now ready
for production. Gauntlets and puttees are currently in development.
“It’s not been easy, but I enjoy what I do and
get a lot of pride seeing somebody walking around in the clothes I’ve
produced,” Mike said. “I am trying to educate people about quality and
at the same time increase volume to get prices down. I hope it takes
off!”
Check out Mike’s website,
www.goldenagemotorcycleclothing.com, for complete details, samples of his
work, and contact information. As much as it costs to restore an antique
motorcycle these days, for only a few dollars more you can complete the
“look,” thanks to Mike.
Sidebar: The Value of Friendship
Three years ago, Mike contracted cancer. During the
chemo treatments, he was so sick that he couldn’t continue the
restoration of his 1961 Harley Panhead.
Mike’s friend, Joe Loiero, kept saying, “Send
over your parts.” Mike declined a couple of times, but when Joe said he
was going to get his tank pressure-tested, he offered to take Mike’s
too. “I finally gave in and gave him my tank—and then he asked for the
fenders, too. I couldn’t quite figure that out, but I let Joe take them
anyway.” What Mike didn’t know was that his friends at the AMCA
Chesapeake Chapter had gotten together to restore his bike for him. “Joe
was the instigator,” Mike said. “He and John King worked on the
mechanical end of things and Art Lumsden did the paint work.”
Mike eventually recovered from the cancer, but it
took a long time. “I went to the Timonium motorcycle show and saw a red
Panhead in the Chesapeake Chapter display. It was just like mine, except
my tank was blue and had flames,” Mike recalled. “I thought it was one
that I had seen before that I had admired. Then someone told me it was my
bike! I even sat on it and still thought it was someone else’s—it
hadn’t sunk in that my friends in the Chesapeake Chapter had gotten
together and restored my bike for me. It is an incredible feeling to have
friends like that.” |